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Word Count: 3,124
Costume of men and women in the 16th century is said to have gone through three different phases The styles differed quite noticeably from one phase to the next However the general dates that these phases took place are not the same for men and women For men the earliest phase was a transition from medieval styles to the styles of the Renaissance Following this period the German influence was prominently seen in mens fashion Spanish influences were strong in the final phase Between 1500 and 1515 mens basic costume consisted of linen shirts doublets padded close-fitting body garments with or without sleeves worn over the shirt hose codpieces bag or box of fabric worn to conceal the front opening of breeches jackets bases gowns cloaks caps andor hats Shirts were made of white linen and cut full and gathered into a round or square neckline often decorated with embroidery or cutwork They had long raglan sleeves Doublets and hose were laced together the doublets being only waist length Hose were seamed into one garment with a codpiece at the front In one version the doublet was cut with a deep V at the front which sometimes had a filler of contrasting color inserted under the V Laces could be used to hold the open area together and also to hold the sleeves in place Jackets sometimes worn over doublets were similar in shaping and made with or without sleeves It is often difficult to discern from period illustrations whether men are wearing doublets or jackets as their outermost garments especially after bases grew in popularity Bases were short skirts worn with a jacket or doublet for civil dress over armor for military dress Made from a series of lined and stiffened gores wedge-shaped pieces of fabric bases carried on in civilian dress until well into the mid-century and over armor for even a longer period Gowns were long full garments with
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