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Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling There is a guy from Hawaii that I know Every day he wakes up straps his surfboards to the racks on top of his car drives his car from a town called Ewa across the island of Oahu to a little beach known as Ala Moana Beach Park He does all of this even before the sun comes up He spends a few minutes just looking at the ocean watching and surveying the waves and how they break As soon as the sun makes its first peek over the horizon he grabs a board waxes it up and jumps in the water He then paddles his board through what many people call a journey two hundred yards of dark cold water blistering currents and waves pushing back against each stroke made to push forward He makes this journey to get to a point right past where all the waves break to a point called the line-up Its here where he waits for a wave that he catches back towards the shore only to make the journey back through all the cold harsh currents and waves again He catches a few waves and then catches one all the way back to shore where he showers gets dressed and then goes off to work He has one of the most stressful jobs I can think of He is a counselor at one of the local shelters for teenage runaways He deals with teen depression suicidal tendencies and coordinates bringing these kids back together with their families And even though these tasks arent what most people would want to have to put up with in their lives he does it every day Furthermore as stressful as his job seems to be this man is one of the mellowest guys that I know When asked why he does this morning ritual every day he said surfing helps keep me focused And
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